Down

 

Down. Down. Down. 4400 ft down. That’s how far down you go from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon to the bottom of the canyon to reach Phantom Ranch the “glamping” lodge below.  14 years ago, a younger, lighter, me declared to my family that I was going to hike the Grand Canyon at 50 and I invited anyone in the family to join me. Fast forward 14 years (almost 5 years later than anticipated) on March 26, 2018 I hiked from the Grand Canyon South Rim down to the bottom of the canyon. This time only my daughter traveled with me. The guide company we traveled with gave all sorts of tips- workout multiple times a week, hike often, work up to 7+ mile hikes. Also be prepared- the hike down is worse than the hike up.
Did I prepare? Yes. Did I work up to 7+ hikes? No. I also didn’t hike very steep hikes. Still, I live 5000 ft above sea level and stay pretty active so I figured I wouldn’t be the least physically prepared person on the hike. I also meditated in preparation for the hike- imagining myself gliding up and down hills, while meditating I was even stomping my feet and waving my arms like there were poles in my hands. I imagined my success- a high 5 for everyone in sight when I returned to the top of the rim.
Since we were scheduled to spend two nights at the bottom of the rim we had to carry clothing and toiletries for those two nights. Additionally we had to carry water- 3 liters a person for our hike down- there was no water on the trail. Knowing that I had to carry a load I did my best to minimize my pack. That said I felt a bit like Cheryl Strayed in her memoir, “Wild” when I put the pack with the essentials on my back. Seriously, I was packing a lot less than she did though I still felt overwhelmed.
Initially the hike felt okay- the first 1.5 miles down the canyon wasn’t too bad. The weather was gorgeous- though a tad chilly but I was dressed appropriately. I felt as if I was well paced and handled the decent easily. As the hike wore on the steps down started to seem higher. At about five miles in the steps down started to look ENORMOUS. Every time we came across a set of stratified steps I almost cried. My calves started to yell, “Remember us? Remember us NOW?!” I knew I had come more than halfway down and there was no turning back or crumpling up in a ball on the trail. Earlier in the hike we had seen some travelers going up the trail by mule.  The mules, that had looked unsteady and terrifying carrying people up the trail now seemed like they would be an amazing method for travel.
Finally we reached the bottom- a bridge over the Colorado river. At that point I felt very badass. My legs were aching but I had done it! I made it to the bottom. The last half mile walk to the Phantom Ranch was a slow death march but I got there. Glamping- it means 10 bunk beds, one toilet (real plumbing!) and a shower. I was so excited to take off my pack and find some shoes! Shoes that weren’t my trusty hiking boots. While I love the boots it’s was time to give my poor feet some air. As I rummaged through the backpack I discovered I had only brought one Teva! I carried that backpack with only 1 Teva inside? That was worse than carrying Tevas - ugh!
I gave gratitude to my sweet, tired, sore feet and returned then to my hiking boots.
By 7 PM I had showered, eaten a hardy meal, and read about 30 pages of a book on my Kindle. That was enough for me. I couldn’t keep my eyes open and ended up going to bed. Luckily for my March 27th was a light hiking day- maybe 6 miles along h Colorado riverbed. It was a day for relaxing before the 9.5 trek back up the canyon. I must remember- it’s harder going down then back up.